A Magical Dinner At Le Chalet Des Iles

There is a list of restaurants I've wanted to try in Paris that I have been checking off over the years. I've just checked one off of my "been there" list and added it to my "go again" list. Le Chalet des Iles on a small island in the ancient forest and park, Bois de Boulonge, is sheer magic. Making our way to the island, my friends and I walked along paths that we shared with bunnies and singing birds. We felt a little like Hansel and Gretel, thinking we should leave a trail of breadcrumbs to find our way back. Adding to the confusion, there were forks in the path with no signs indicating which way to go. We happened along a group of men playing pétanque, who took a break in their game to give us directions to the island. You could say we took the scenic route! It's all about the journey, right? Coming out of the woods, our first view of the lake was a stunning view of row boats and a mirror reflection of the tall trees against the clear blue sky with white puffy clouds. We made our way around the lake as it was getting close to our planned time to meet other friends and our 8 PM reservation. A little dusty and very thirsty, we happily saw the small ferry boat with the restaurant in the background. The view of the tables with their starched white tablecloths being set with candles, menus, and wine glasses as our ferry arrived on the island, added to the anticipation. The mâitre d' ushered us to our table on the patio. To start off, we chose a slightly chilled Brouilly wine as the warm sun settled down through the aged trees and onto the calm lake. Looking up we noticed a peacock perched on top of the edge of the trellis watching over us and keeping an eye out for his friends that roamed alongside the tables. Our waiter brought crusty rolls as we pondered our dinner choices. The menu mainly offered traditional French fare, and I chose the Filet of Beef with a Béarnaise Sauce and Potatoes Dauphine. In France, beef must be prepared rare or it is considered ruined. So ordering it medium will mean that it is still pretty rare. There were ten of us and we practiced the American habit of sharing a taste of each others food. We had bypassed the appetizers so a few of us had room for dessert. Of course, we tasted each of those as well! There was a trio of sorbets, Rhubarb Tart with Strawberries and Molten Salt Caramel Cake with Caramel Ice Cream. Phew! Satisfied, wiping our mouths with the crisp napkins, we reluctantly thought about getting the check. At that very moment one of the giant peacocks flew up into the tall tree above us, and yelped something that sounded like this, "You owe, you owe!!". Jaws dropped and we looked at each other saying "We know, we know!!". As we counted out our euros, we eerily felt the peacocks looking down. Night had now fallen and since getting lost in the bois was not a bonne idée, we took a direct route back. Stopping at the Trocadero before heading back on the metro, we sat for a few minutes and took in the sight of the Eiffel Tower. As it sparkled before us, we were all thinking about the next time we'd be back to our magic kingdom.

Written and photographed by Diane.

Window Shopping And Provençale Mustard

I love mustard...not the harsh bright yellow supermarket variety, but creamy, speckled honey colored mustard from Dijon...mustard that will bring a tear to the eye and a pound to the heart. I put it on everything from omelets and chicken sandwiches to potatoes. It goes into vinaigrette and is a dip for my bread. In Paris, the Maille Shop is a mustard lovers panacea. They have it mixed with things only a Frenchman dreaming of his next meal can imagine. Some of the combinations are a little wild, like the latest Parisian fashions, and some open up a whole new world. You can buy mustard in the store in a refillable crock, that the stylish ladies fill to order right at the counter from a tapor from the shelves lined with all of the varieties. Pickles and cornichons sit beside the mustard, but they don't hold the same interest for me. Today I got a Provençale mustard that mixes roasted red peppers, garlic and herbs to create a versatile condiment that can go anywhere, unlike the haute couture of the day.Using the Provençale mustard as an inspiration, I created a similar mixture that is easy, delicious and as versatile as a sun drenched, South of France frock.

Provençale Mustard

3-4 large garlic cloves, sliced
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon fresh chives, snipped
1 teaspoon canola or other light oil
1 large roasted red pepper, peeled
1/4 cup Dijon mustard

Over medium low heat, lightly sauté the garlic, thyme and chives in the oil until just soft. In the bowl of a food processor, add the roasted red pepper, garlic herb mixture, and Dijon mustard. Pulse until well blended. Store in a covered airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use. Makes 1/2 cup.

Written and photographed by Diane.

Provençale Mustard recipe (pdf)

A Grand Day In Paris

A group of us decided to go see the Andy Warhol exhibit at the Grand Palais in Paris, and then have dinner at Le Grand Colbert....it would be a Grand day! The metro ride to the Champs-Elysee-Clemenceau stop was quick and upon exiting I wondered if going to the museum on such a beautiful day was the best thing to do. But...committed, as we entered the reflective entry, I was drawn in. I have never been a big Andy Warhol fan, but am interested in all art, and how the art evolved with the artist, current events of the time and history. I lived in NYC when Andy Warhol was a mainstay of the "Studio 54" disco crowd and saw his Pop Art portraits of the rich and famous continually turned out. Warhol once remarked that he wanted all his portraits to fit together and make one big painting called "Portraits of Society". Looking at them in this exhibit brings his vision to light. Most know Warhol from his Campbell Soup Can painting. The Pop Art movement had it's west coast debut with this exhibit, and he continued with this style in his portraits. The Marilyn Monroe


and Jackie Kennedy portraits

are probably the most notable. Portraits are a page in history and artists styles are a reflection of the mood of the time. In many ways his style was the Grand Daddy of Photoshop. Paris' Grand Palais added weight and grandeur to this exhibit. After absorbing it all, we descended the marble stairway to leave, and the palatial windows framed the view as yet another work of art. Once back outside in the late afternoon sun, we shopped a little and then walked down the Rue de Rivoli to have a glass of wine at Cafe Marly, overlooking the Pyramids of the Louvre. It is an outdoor resting spot for many that is away from street traffic and has a view that changes with the light and the people of the world. We had a 7:30 reservation for dinner, which is early for Parisians, but perfect for us. The short walk to Le Grand Colbert, took us through the gardens of the Palais Royal with it's blooming roses and pruned tree lined path. Le Grand Colbert had a starring role in the movie, "Something's Gotta Give", with Diane Keaton, Jack Nicholson and Keanu Reeves. It is a classic French brasserie with a warm, romantic elegance and service that was friendly and very attentive, even as the restaurant filled up....and did I mention the cute waiters? Sorry, no pics, you'll have to imagine! After appetizers of smoked salmon with a delicate herb goat cheese, and frogs legs, we dined on gigot of lamb with potato dauphinois, roast duck and carpaccio of beef. All were delicious except the tasteless frogs legs...give those legs back to the frogs! The chef owes them an apology. I dipped my crusty roll into the best part....the remaining garlic flavored oil. All in all, hardly a crumb was left and feeling just a little too satisfied to order dessert, we decided to walk back and have gelato in the Latin Quarter. That brought us back past the Louvre as the late setting evening sun was coming through the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and spotlighting the museum with light and shadow. Oh those French, the masters of architecture...you know they planned it that way! Crossing the Seine to the Saturday night activities in the Latin Quarter, we ordered gelato at our regular spot. As the flower shaped creations started to drip in the warm evening air, we eagerly munched away before a picture was taken. Some things just can't wait. And yes, it was indeed a Grand Day in Paris.

Written and photographed by Diane.

The Lure Of The Sea and Lobster Rolls

Yesterday morning had that summery feel to it. The temperature was warm and the air was slightly moist with the salt of the sea and had the scent of the emerging surf. I went for a walk (with my camera, of course!) and ran into Joe, a local fisherman. He leads a Thoreau like life by the sea. In between fishing and lobstering and keeping an eye on the dock, he makes lobster trap coffee tables that are works of art. We chatted for a while by the landing and then he got into his dingy and rowed out to his lobster boat Bertha, to start his day. I then wandered over to a friends house and still having the thought of lobsters wafting through my head, we made a plan to get some from Joe and make lobster rolls. I had the easy job of getting the rolls and my friend would arrange to get the lobsters from Joe. Since we are too squeamish, chicken, or want to step away from that "dropping live lobsters into boiling water" part of the process, Joe cooked them for us, too. What a man! Sunday morning he walked over with a pot full of bright, orange red cooked lobsters(I still felt guilty looking at those accusing eyes). Five of us donned aprons, and armed with lobster crackers and picks we filled a pretty good sized bowl with sweet tender lobster meat. The traditional New England Lobster Roll is lobster meat mixed with just a little mayonnaise and stuffed inside a top cut, hot dog bun that has been toasted in butter. Breaking away from the traditional boring hot dog bun, I used brioche buns that are a little richer, without overpowering the lobster. We took a vote and also added a squeeze of lemon and some fresh tarragon picked straight from the herb garden. We were careful not to gussy it up too much and deviate from it's natural simplicity. Less is more here. The old adage that "many hands make light work" was true, as we were soon spooning the lobster into the toasted rolls. After the platter was full, we sat down to my friend's table overlooking the sea and local boats, and whiled away the afternoon dining, chatting and reflecting on how blessed we all are.
Written and photographed by Diane.