This Little Piggy Went To Market...

This little piggy went to market and this little piggy should have stayed home! Walking into the classic and bustling brasserie, Au Pied de Cochon in Paris' Les Halles area, the vision is what you would want in a Parisian dining legend. Waiters are clad in black and white, and have the air of longevity in this Art Nouveau decorated brasserie. Art glass chandeliers hang from the ceiling recalling an era when decor was feminine and joyous.

This brasserie has never closed their doors since it's opening in 1946. It has evolved from a local eatery that has always been open 24/7, to a traditional brasserie full of tourists and locals. Our cloth covered, reserved table of 4 was pulled back to welcome us, as we took in the atmosphere that was seemingly halted in time.

Menus were presented and a Confiture de Cochon was brought to the table with bread. It was interesting, but not special.

We wanted to order what this institution is known for. None of us were tempted though, by their well known Pig Trotter's in Bernaise Sauce. After a time that seemed extraordinary, the waiter took our choices. More time passed. Finally, we shared fresh and tasty oysters on the half shell that came with a red wine vinaigrette. My friend Michelle, had to try the French Onion Soup that the Les Halles marketeers dined on after the end of their long days, more than fifty years ago.

The cheese was hot and had that long pull to it, but the broth was a tasteless brew. Our main courses were Duck Confit and the plat du jour, Sausages (we got some pork involved!) with Lentils. The duck arrived ice cold and was returned for reheating. The Sausage and Lentils were good when slathered with lots of Dijon mustard, but really not a reason to come here.

We eyed the seafood plate at the table next to us and wondered if it was a better choice.

Maybe yes, maybe no. We thought about trying to snag a crab when they got up to have a cigarette outside.....our experience here was starting to "go to the pigs!" Perhaps dessert would bring us back. A question to the waiter regarding the Molleux au Chocolat, was met with rudeness, so we paid our bill and decided to have dessert back at the hotel. Sitting in one of the small and private pocket rooms in the dining area of the hotel, we had the Cafe Gourmand....coffee with a selection of varied and satisfying desserts.

Commenting, we were glad to have tried Au Pied de Couchon, but we would not be trotting back very soon!

Parisian Pied-à-Terre and Amour

It started with an invitation, scripted and embellished with a gold fleur-de-lis. "We'd love you (and the crew) to join us on the 23rd for drinks, 6ish. We're at........"

My friend and fellow "stew" Nancy, is staying at a pied-à-terre with her husband, in Paris, and invited us for an appèritif. Of course, we accepted. The weather was sunny and temperate and seemed to be special ordered for an afternoon of walking and shopping before going to our friend's apartment.

Along the way, we picked out a bouquet to bring. At first we were drawn to the huge sunflowers....then the colorful dahlias....and then calla lilies that had such rich fall colors. In the end we decided on a bouquet in bold shades of orange with seasonal berries.

Next we wanted to get a bottle of wine, and stopped at a favorite wine shop.

There are always so many hand picked choices here! With arms full of flowers and wine, we quickened our pace and arrived at Nancy and Michael's pied-à-terre just a few minutes late. Good thing we didn't get the sunflowers, since she had a big vase full of them on the kitchen counter.

The orange bouquet had a nice view by the open window,

that looked out over a courtyard.

Another rooftop view had been painted by the owner, who is an artist, and hung on the wall.

Nancy had prepared some appetizers

and we knew there were more coming, by the toasted nut aroma from the oven. An oozy, warm baked Brie cheese topped with sweetened sliced almonds appeared before us.

Nancy showed us some of her latest reads....

(we may never be French, but it will always hold a special place in our hearts!) We all chatted and caught up with their stay in Paris.
Even the cat was happy!

I was shown a new way to tie my scarf before we bid au revoir.

Leaving for dinner, our walk in this area near Notrè Dame, was guided by angels painted on the sidewalk...

and of course, amour.

After all, this is Paris....!


Nancy described her Baked Brie appetizer and I tried it at home. I liked a touch of honey drizzled over it while it was fresh from the oven. The side and bottom rind acts as a container for the soft baked cheese and almonds. This couldn't be any easier or more delicious!

Baked Brie with Sweetened Almonds and Honey


4 ounce round of Brie cheese*
1/3 cup sliced almonds
1/2 teaspoon powdered sugar
1 tablespoon honey

*You may use a larger piece of Brie, just multiply the other ingredients accordingly.


Slice the rind off of the top of the Brie. Place in a round ovenproof container that just fits the cheese, and bring to room temperature. In a small bowl, sprinkle the powdered sugar over the almonds. Add a few drops of water while stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Place this mixture on top of the cheese and bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for about 15 minutes, or until the cheese is soft and runny, and the almonds are lightly toasted. Put on a serving dish and drizzle with honey.
Serve immediately with crackers and fresh fruit.


Baked Brie with Sweetened Almonds and Honey recipe (pdf)

Figs and Proscuitto with Comté and Port Wine Glaze

On approach into Paris you could almost see the chill in the air. The sky was gray with a slight mist hugging the ground. When the airplane door opened, I wished I had a fashionable and warm scarf draped around me instead of my navy blue airline uniform. I know often there is a bone chill in the morning air, and as the day arrives, the warm breath of approaching autumn heaves a sigh. Fortunately, this was the case that day. In the late afternoon sun, my crew and I met to share our day before we went to dinner. We had reservations at, Le Vin dans les Voiles, a restaurant we had never been to before, but was recommended to one of us. It's on the outskirts of Paris in the 16th arrondissement, on a tiny street that isn't even on many maps.

The restaurant itself is so small that the owner, Phillipe, graciously handles all of his patrons. Each of us ordered different things from the chalkboard menu and one choice was as tasty as the next. I started with Fresh Figs wrapped in Prosciutto, topped with a Balsamic Glaze and served with salad greens. A blended wine from the South of France was carefully suggested by Phillipe. It was robust with the complexity of four blended grapes: 46% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 19% Grenache noir and 5% Mouvèdre, from Bernard Magrez Vineyards. The name translated means, "If my father knew". While I'm not sure exactly what his father didn't know, it lends to good dinner conversation!

My main course was a Filet Mignon with a Green Peppercorn Sauce and roasted potatoes. I finished with a softly baked Cream of Chestnut Cake with Creme Anglaise swirled with chocolate. Feeling very full and satisfied and needing an after dinner walk, I discouraged one of my friends from using her favorite 4 letter French word..."Taxi!!" We compromised and walked across the Pont du Garigliano before taking the metro back to the hotel.

Back at home in Boston, the same morning chill worked it's way into a warm, yet crisp day. And I wanted figs...figs with prosciutto. I had port wine that I made a reduction with, instead of the balsamic vinegar glaze that was on my figs in Paris. Comté cheese, and arugula with some of it's blossoms from the garden, sounded good too. I sprinkled a little fleur de sel on it at the finish. The slight crunch of the salt on the peppery arugula worked very well together. With food this good I'll be able to embrace tomorrow's arrival of fall. 

Figs and Prosciutto with Cheese and Port Wine Glaze

4 fresh figs, washed

4 slices prosciutto, sliced paper thin

4 slices of Comté cheese, or other cheese of your choice

a large handful of arugula, rinsed

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Toss the arugula with the olive oil. Divide the arugula in half and place each portion on a salad plate. Wrap a slice of prosciutto around each fig and place on top of arugula. Arrange the cheese on the plate,

and drizzle each serving with 1 tablespoon of the port wine glaze.

Port wine Glaze

1 cup Port wine, ruby or tawny*

*You don't need expensive port, but as with any wine that you cook with, make sure it is a wine you would enjoy drinking.

In a small saucepan, reduce the wine over very low heat. The wine should not simmer, but just steam to evaporate. Reduce the wine to 2 tablespoons. This will take about 45 minutes. Keep a close eye on the wine as it reduces, since it can quickly burn.

Makes 2 tablespoons of Port wine glaze. Allow 1 tablespoon per serving. 

 Figs and Prosciutto with Comté and Port Wine Glaze recipe (pdf)

Millefeuille d'Aubergines And Chèvre Frais

Maybe it was the glass of wine, the candlelit restaurant, jet lag, or Mercury retrograde. Perhaps the sun was in my eyes....or maybe it was just the camera that allowed me to delete all of my pics without asking me a second time if I really wanted to get rid of photos from a fabulous day with friends. C'est la vie! So I don't have a photo of my sumptuously layered fresh goat cheese and eggplant starter, from Ambassade d'Auvergne, in Paris. I did come home and create my version to enjoy as I remembered it in my mind and with my taste buds, if not from my photographs. Just as savory!

My friend and fellow "stew", Lisa Magnuson of the Providence Wine Examiner, recommended some wine selections to go along with this starter. Her top choices are, Spanish Cava (sparkling), Tavel Rosé, Alsatian Riesling (which is dry) or a White Bordeaux. Today I served a chilled Rosé from Provence that I had gotten previously in Paris, and it was perfect.

So pour a glass of wine, enjoy this with friends...and watch for tricky fingers on the camera buttons!!

Millefeuille d'Aubergines And Chèvre Frais

1/2 pound baby or small Italian eggplant

2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (thyme, basil, oregano) or 1/2 teaspoon dried herb de Provence

1 clove minced garlic

sea salt and pepper to taste

1-2 teaspoons honey

4 ounces fresh goat cheese*

*If you can't find fresh goat cheese, whisk a small amount of milk or cream with the cheese to loosen it slightly.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Slice unpeeled eggplant 1/8 inch thick. Using a mandolin makes it easier and more uniform.

Place on a baking sheet and toss with the olive oil, herbs, garlic and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. Spread the eggplant out in a single layer on the baking sheet and bake about 10-15 minutes.

You want the eggplant to be cooked but not too brown. Since the slices are very thin, they will cook quickly, so keep a close eye on them. Once they are done, let cool.

In a 1 1/2 cup clear glass (so you can see the layers), drizzle a few drops of olive oil and place a layer of goat cheese first. You'll be making 4-5 layers, so you'll need about one ounce per layer. Drizzle a few drops of honey, then add a layer of the cooked eggplant, making sure they are laying flat. Add a light drizzle of olive oil over the eggplant. Press down to get rid of any empty spaces and to make a firm layer. Keep repeating, ending with the eggplant. Refrigerate until firm.

To unmold, set glass in a bowl of warm water for a minute, being careful not to get any water into the glass. Run a small metal spatula around the edges to loosen and invert onto serving plate. Drizzle some honey and olive oil over the top and garnish with fresh herbs.

Serve with crusty French bread.

Makes 1 cup.

Millefeuille d'Aubergines And Chèvre Frais recipe (pdf)

Cookies, Fun And Games

Who says you can't have fun and play with your food? Even though I love a great chocolate chip or oatmeal cookie, it is so-o-o much more fun to make spirals, bull's eye, happy faces, Dominoes, and cookies with a message. My son left for college a few weeks ago and needed a few things sent, so I added some edible fun and games. Who doesn't need a smile in between Multivariable Calculus and Physics? Frankly, I'd need therapy, but I don't know of a cookie for that! Anyway, I had some new cookie cutters for the Dominoes and Happy Face, that came from a great source that you can find here. New cookie cutters are like new toys (well, for some of us :-) and I couldn't wait to try them out. I experimented with different cookie doughs and found just the right dough for keeping the shape of the cookies. Last spring, I used the Rolled Sugar Cookie dough with the Brigitte Cutter to make cookies, and it was perfect. Rolling the dough to 1/4 inch thickness and keeping it chilled are just as important as the proper recipe. I also roll all of my cookie dough between sheets of plastic wrap or parchment to prevent sticking. Just about all cookie recipes can be made in the food processor, which also adds to the ease of cookie making. I always use an insulated cookie sheet for shaped cookies. The insulated cookie sheets help with even browning and for keeping the shape of the cookie. It really makes a big difference.

I rolled, baked, decorated with royal icing, and packed the cookies for mailing. Oh, and don't forget love, the most important ingredient!
So, use the right recipe, for ease, make it in the food processor, roll it to the proper thickness between sheets of plastic wrap or parchment, keep it chilled, and use an insulated cookie sheet and you'll have success every time.

Rolled Sugar Cookies

2 1/4 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
12 tablespoons unsalted butter (room temperature)
1 large egg
1 tablespoon lemon zest, finely grated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In large bowl or food processor, cream sugar and butter together until fluffy. Add egg, lemon zest and vanilla extract until well blended. Add the flour and salt and mix until it begins to form a ball, scraping down the sides of the bowl if needed. If the dough is too dry, add a few drops of water. Scrape dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap and press together to form a thick flat disc. Wrap well and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and butter a baking sheet.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about 1/8 inch thick (1/4 inch, if using Brigitte cutter), or desired thickness. The dough needs to be just the right temperature to roll and cut properly. If it is too cold, it is hard to roll, and if it is too soft it becomes difficult to cut and pick up. Roll any scraps back into a ball and chill again. Use as little flour as possible to roll out, so they don't get tough. After cutting, place on a baking sheet and bake for 8-12 minutes or until just lightly browned. Remove from oven and let cool on wire rack. I use an insulated baking sheet to prevent the edges from getting too brown.

Makes 4 dozen, 3 inch (1/8 inch thick) cookies.


Chocolate Cookie Cutouts
(Adapted from Martha Stewart's Cookie book)

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups sifted confectioner's sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Sift flour, cocoa powder, salt and cinnamon into a bowl.

Place butter and confectioners' sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Mix in egg and vanilla. Reduce speed to low. Gradually mix in flour mixture. Turn dough out onto a baking sheet lined with a nonstick baking mat. Form dough into a disk on baking mat and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour and up to overnight.

Lift baking mat from baking sheet. Roll out dough between baking mat and plastic wrap to 1/4 inch thick. Remove plastic wrap. Cut out cookies with cookie cutters. Transfer baking mat to a baking sheet. Transfer baking sheet to freezer, freeze until very firm, about 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove baking sheet from freezer and trim scraps. Reroll scraps between a nonstick baking mat and plastic wrap and repeat process.

Bake cookies on an insulated cookie sheet until crisp, about 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely on sheets on wire racks. Cookies can be stored between layers of parchment in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week.

Makes 3-4 dozen cookies.

Spiral Cookies

On Parchment paper, roll out one 1/4 inch thick, 9 x 6 inch rectangle from the chocolate dough and one from the vanilla dough. Lay the vanilla dough on top of the chocolate dough, pressing gently to seal together. Roll lengthwise into a spiral and refrigerate about 20 minutes.

Slice crosswise into 1/4 inch thick rounds. Place on an insulated cookie sheet and bake about 12-15 minutes in a preheated 350 degree oven. The cookies should be firm, but not browned.

Cool on a wire rack.

Bull's Eye Cookies

Roll out a 12 x 3/4 inch rod from the chocolate cookie dough. Roll out a 1/4 inch thick, 12 x 4 inch rectangle from the vanilla dough. Place the rod on top of the rectangle and roll lengthwise firmly. Seal the edges lengthwise by rolling with your hands on a hard surface. Refrigerate about 20 minutes until firm.

Slice crosswise into 1/4 inch circles and place on an insulated cookie sheet. Bake in a preheated oven for about 12-15 minutes until firm, but not browned.

Cool on a wire rack.


Rolled Sugar Cookie recipe (pdf)
Chocolate Cookie Cutouts recipe (pdf)
Spiral and Bull's Eye Cookies recipe (pdf)

Sources:
Brigitte Cookie Cutter source: Harsefeld Online e-bay store
Let's Smile Cutter source: Harsefeld Online e-bay store
Domino Cookie Cutter source: Harsefeld Online e-bay store