Come Shopping.....Parisien Food Markets

There are street food markets all over Paris, that are open a few days a week. The vendors set up their stalls full of fresh and prepared food, fish, and meats. Flowers and herbs as well as some clothing, jewelry and kitchen wares are also offered. Last week my friend Debbie and her husband, Don and I went to the Grenelle market in Paris' 7th arondissement. It was a sunny fall morning and the crowds were out. We were greeted by fresh fish and seafood on ice.

Elbow to elbow, we were moved along by the sweet scent of fresh picked flowers.

I parted with some euro when I caught a whiff of dried herbs, oils and vinegars, and salt and pepper from the south of France.

There aren't many fruits or vegetables that are allowed back into the US, so we just admired their beauty and bounty.

Each one was more seductive than the next.
The bright and deep greens of the Romanesca, artichokes and cabbage, counterbalanced the creamy colors of the potatoes, pasta and cheese.
I'm not too sure though, that I could bring myself to have a taste of this bleu cheese from d'Augverge.

Black walnuts, hazelnuts and honey all complimented the many cheeses.

Tea and jam had fresh baked breads and pastries ready to be taken home with them.
Suddenly a loud "cock-a-doodle-doo" echoed under the tented roof. The animated butcher sang the song of the rooster, as he merrily prepared his goods for the waiting customers, on his well worn board. Trotters and tongues mingled with sausages, and hams.
Roasted whole chickens and freshly laid eggs,

could be taken home alongside prepared lentils with carrots, and rich Potatoes Dauphiois.

And, if all of those fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses and flowers aren't enough....at the end of the market you can buy some colorful lingerie. But, will you be able to fit into them after the prior indulgences?!

Bon Appetit!

Paris Street Markets locations and times.

This Little Piggy Went To Market...

This little piggy went to market and this little piggy should have stayed home! Walking into the classic and bustling brasserie, Au Pied de Cochon in Paris' Les Halles area, the vision is what you would want in a Parisian dining legend. Waiters are clad in black and white, and have the air of longevity in this Art Nouveau decorated brasserie. Art glass chandeliers hang from the ceiling recalling an era when decor was feminine and joyous.

This brasserie has never closed their doors since it's opening in 1946. It has evolved from a local eatery that has always been open 24/7, to a traditional brasserie full of tourists and locals. Our cloth covered, reserved table of 4 was pulled back to welcome us, as we took in the atmosphere that was seemingly halted in time.

Menus were presented and a Confiture de Cochon was brought to the table with bread. It was interesting, but not special.

We wanted to order what this institution is known for. None of us were tempted though, by their well known Pig Trotter's in Bernaise Sauce. After a time that seemed extraordinary, the waiter took our choices. More time passed. Finally, we shared fresh and tasty oysters on the half shell that came with a red wine vinaigrette. My friend Michelle, had to try the French Onion Soup that the Les Halles marketeers dined on after the end of their long days, more than fifty years ago.

The cheese was hot and had that long pull to it, but the broth was a tasteless brew. Our main courses were Duck Confit and the plat du jour, Sausages (we got some pork involved!) with Lentils. The duck arrived ice cold and was returned for reheating. The Sausage and Lentils were good when slathered with lots of Dijon mustard, but really not a reason to come here.

We eyed the seafood plate at the table next to us and wondered if it was a better choice.

Maybe yes, maybe no. We thought about trying to snag a crab when they got up to have a cigarette outside.....our experience here was starting to "go to the pigs!" Perhaps dessert would bring us back. A question to the waiter regarding the Molleux au Chocolat, was met with rudeness, so we paid our bill and decided to have dessert back at the hotel. Sitting in one of the small and private pocket rooms in the dining area of the hotel, we had the Cafe Gourmand....coffee with a selection of varied and satisfying desserts.

Commenting, we were glad to have tried Au Pied de Couchon, but we would not be trotting back very soon!

Parisian Pied-à-Terre and Amour

It started with an invitation, scripted and embellished with a gold fleur-de-lis. "We'd love you (and the crew) to join us on the 23rd for drinks, 6ish. We're at........"

My friend and fellow "stew" Nancy, is staying at a pied-à-terre with her husband, in Paris, and invited us for an appèritif. Of course, we accepted. The weather was sunny and temperate and seemed to be special ordered for an afternoon of walking and shopping before going to our friend's apartment.

Along the way, we picked out a bouquet to bring. At first we were drawn to the huge sunflowers....then the colorful dahlias....and then calla lilies that had such rich fall colors. In the end we decided on a bouquet in bold shades of orange with seasonal berries.

Next we wanted to get a bottle of wine, and stopped at a favorite wine shop.

There are always so many hand picked choices here! With arms full of flowers and wine, we quickened our pace and arrived at Nancy and Michael's pied-à-terre just a few minutes late. Good thing we didn't get the sunflowers, since she had a big vase full of them on the kitchen counter.

The orange bouquet had a nice view by the open window,

that looked out over a courtyard.

Another rooftop view had been painted by the owner, who is an artist, and hung on the wall.

Nancy had prepared some appetizers

and we knew there were more coming, by the toasted nut aroma from the oven. An oozy, warm baked Brie cheese topped with sweetened sliced almonds appeared before us.

Nancy showed us some of her latest reads....

(we may never be French, but it will always hold a special place in our hearts!) We all chatted and caught up with their stay in Paris.
Even the cat was happy!

I was shown a new way to tie my scarf before we bid au revoir.

Leaving for dinner, our walk in this area near Notrè Dame, was guided by angels painted on the sidewalk...

and of course, amour.

After all, this is Paris....!


Nancy described her Baked Brie appetizer and I tried it at home. I liked a touch of honey drizzled over it while it was fresh from the oven. The side and bottom rind acts as a container for the soft baked cheese and almonds. This couldn't be any easier or more delicious!

Baked Brie with Sweetened Almonds and Honey


4 ounce round of Brie cheese*
1/3 cup sliced almonds
1/2 teaspoon powdered sugar
1 tablespoon honey

*You may use a larger piece of Brie, just multiply the other ingredients accordingly.


Slice the rind off of the top of the Brie. Place in a round ovenproof container that just fits the cheese, and bring to room temperature. In a small bowl, sprinkle the powdered sugar over the almonds. Add a few drops of water while stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Place this mixture on top of the cheese and bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for about 15 minutes, or until the cheese is soft and runny, and the almonds are lightly toasted. Put on a serving dish and drizzle with honey.
Serve immediately with crackers and fresh fruit.


Baked Brie with Sweetened Almonds and Honey recipe (pdf)

Figs and Proscuitto with Comté and Port Wine Glaze

On approach into Paris you could almost see the chill in the air. The sky was gray with a slight mist hugging the ground. When the airplane door opened, I wished I had a fashionable and warm scarf draped around me instead of my navy blue airline uniform. I know often there is a bone chill in the morning air, and as the day arrives, the warm breath of approaching autumn heaves a sigh. Fortunately, this was the case that day. In the late afternoon sun, my crew and I met to share our day before we went to dinner. We had reservations at, Le Vin dans les Voiles, a restaurant we had never been to before, but was recommended to one of us. It's on the outskirts of Paris in the 16th arrondissement, on a tiny street that isn't even on many maps.

The restaurant itself is so small that the owner, Phillipe, graciously handles all of his patrons. Each of us ordered different things from the chalkboard menu and one choice was as tasty as the next. I started with Fresh Figs wrapped in Prosciutto, topped with a Balsamic Glaze and served with salad greens. A blended wine from the South of France was carefully suggested by Phillipe. It was robust with the complexity of four blended grapes: 46% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 19% Grenache noir and 5% Mouvèdre, from Bernard Magrez Vineyards. The name translated means, "If my father knew". While I'm not sure exactly what his father didn't know, it lends to good dinner conversation!

My main course was a Filet Mignon with a Green Peppercorn Sauce and roasted potatoes. I finished with a softly baked Cream of Chestnut Cake with Creme Anglaise swirled with chocolate. Feeling very full and satisfied and needing an after dinner walk, I discouraged one of my friends from using her favorite 4 letter French word..."Taxi!!" We compromised and walked across the Pont du Garigliano before taking the metro back to the hotel.

Back at home in Boston, the same morning chill worked it's way into a warm, yet crisp day. And I wanted figs...figs with prosciutto. I had port wine that I made a reduction with, instead of the balsamic vinegar glaze that was on my figs in Paris. Comté cheese, and arugula with some of it's blossoms from the garden, sounded good too. I sprinkled a little fleur de sel on it at the finish. The slight crunch of the salt on the peppery arugula worked very well together. With food this good I'll be able to embrace tomorrow's arrival of fall. 

Figs and Prosciutto with Cheese and Port Wine Glaze

4 fresh figs, washed

4 slices prosciutto, sliced paper thin

4 slices of Comté cheese, or other cheese of your choice

a large handful of arugula, rinsed

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Toss the arugula with the olive oil. Divide the arugula in half and place each portion on a salad plate. Wrap a slice of prosciutto around each fig and place on top of arugula. Arrange the cheese on the plate,

and drizzle each serving with 1 tablespoon of the port wine glaze.

Port wine Glaze

1 cup Port wine, ruby or tawny*

*You don't need expensive port, but as with any wine that you cook with, make sure it is a wine you would enjoy drinking.

In a small saucepan, reduce the wine over very low heat. The wine should not simmer, but just steam to evaporate. Reduce the wine to 2 tablespoons. This will take about 45 minutes. Keep a close eye on the wine as it reduces, since it can quickly burn.

Makes 2 tablespoons of Port wine glaze. Allow 1 tablespoon per serving. 

 Figs and Prosciutto with Comté and Port Wine Glaze recipe (pdf)