Saturday, January 9, 2010

Snow, Ice, Salt and a Giveaway!

Brrrr.....parts of Europe are in a deep freeze that won't ease it's grip. The United Kingdom is getting snow and ice they haven't seen in decades. Some areas have run out of salt and aren't expecting to be able to get any for a while. In one rural town, a man said his wife hasn't been able to get back home for 15 days (that's her story and she's sticking to it!) Asia is also setting records. Seoul, South Korea had a foot of snow in a 24 hour period which is a first. Here in the US, one storm starts up as another passes. Besides the skiers and children, the only one who really enjoys the snow is my neighbor's dog, Dakota! Florida citrus crops are in danger of freezing as frosty temperatures replace the balmy sun. At home in Massachusetts, my son Zac, went out with a friend last weekend during the storm and shot some photos around town as the snow fell. It was late into the night, and a cold, white stillness took hold as they witnessed the beginning of an unrelenting snow. The closed movie theater in town had an Edward Hopper-like appeal. His friend cross country skied as a lone car came by. A war memorial seemed to come alive as a winter battle and it's perils is envisioned. But I think it is time for the ice and snow to stop. What we need is salt (besides sunshine, of course), and lot's of it to melt away the icy chill! So I'm having my very first giveaway. Fleur de Sel...the French salt that is the flower of the sea. Ahhhh...did someone say flower.....and sea? And rosy chunks of Himalayan sea salt with it's own grater. They are sure to melt the ice from the heart of winter as they season your food. I can see the pink coming back into your cheeks now! So, crack the ice from your knuckles and leave a comment. How are you beating the chill? Mention you are a follower and I'll put your name in twice. I love my friends from outside of the US, but I can only ship within the 48 contiguous states and Canada. The first name drawn will receive the Fleur de Sel and the Himalayan sea salt and grater. The second name that gets drawn receives the Fleur de Sel. On my next post, I'll announce the winner. Stay warm, my friends.Thanks Zac, for your great B&W film photos.

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Sunday, January 3, 2010

A Fresh Sweet Start

Each new year brings another opportunity for a fresh start. A time to bid adieu to the past and start with a clean slate. This year we have a new decade before us as well. When I reflect on the past 10 years, I am amazed at the profound changes that have taken place in my life and in the lives of those close to me. There have been many "up" times, as my family hit milestones and worked hard for personal success, and everyday joys. There were some very dark "down" times, such as the passing of friends and family members. And who could have predicted that at the beginning of the last decade the worst terrorist attack in our history would've began at my city and my airline? So many changes came at once, and yes, I adapted. We all adapt and begin fresh chapters every year and some years are bigger than others. When I started this blog a little over a year ago with my friend Pam, the other "stew", we didn't know where it would lead. She has since begun her own blog, The Gypsy Chef, as we both develop our individual styles and ways of expressing them. While we wade through the chiaroscuro of life, it seems the fresh starts are the lightest. My new year began with snow that just hasn't stopped for days now.The snow seems to be saying, on this new year, this new decade, that it is giving a clean white covering to begin anew. So I took the que and hunkered down and made crisp, sweet white meringues, that resemble snow drops. Recalling a recipe from a cookbook that my neighbor, Kate introduced me to, I made a winter citrus treat with meringues and crème fraîche. The cookbook entitled, "Stir", is written by Barbara Lynch, a brilliant Boston chef. I changed a few of the ingredients to suit my taste (noted at the end of the recipe) and was pleased by it's sweet freshness, combination of flavors and visual allure. I was so inspired by the white purity of the crisp meringues that I have included them in my new look on this blog. I am beginning this new year with a clean and pure look, just like the blanket of snow around me. I also want to thank each and everyone of you who have commented, made suggestions or just sat with a cup of coffee or glass of wine and read my blog. I wish you a fresh and sweet start to this new year and decade.

Winter Citrus with Cumin Meringue and Whipped Crème Fraîche
(Adapted from "Stir", by Barbara Lynch)

For the citrus:
1/2 cup sugar
2 whole star anise or 2 teaspoons pieces
1 cinnamon stick
2 teaspoons whole cardamom pods (green or white)
6 assorted citrus fruit*, peeled, and segmented** (squeeze juice left in pulp and reserve that, too, for about 1 1/2 cups juice)
*Suggested citrus fruits are, Cara Cara orange, satsuma, a tangerine, a Meyer lemon, a ruby red grapefruit, and a blood orange.
**For video showing how to segment an orange, click here.

For the meringues:
3 large egg whites
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/8 teaspoon ground cumin* (see note at bottom of recipe)
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup sugar

For serving:
3/4 cup
crème fraîche

To make the citrus:
In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, 1/2 cup water, star anise, cinnamon stick, and cardamom pods. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sugar has dissolved and the spices have infused their flavor, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved citrus juice and return to a simmer over medium low heat until mixture has reduced by about half and is syrupy, about 1/2 hour. Strain and reserve the liquid. (Discard the spices.) If not using right away, refrigerate the fruit and liquid, covered.

To make the meringues:
Heat oven to 200 degrees F and line a baking sheet with Silpat or with parchment paper. In a bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites on medium speed until frothy.
Add the cream of tartar, cumin,and salt. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form.Using a large spoon, put dollops of the egg whites, about the size of a lime, on a baking sheet, leaving about 1 1/2 inches of room around each; you will make about 20 meringues.Bake the meringues until completely dry and crisp, about 4 hours. Ideally the crisps should not color or should color only slightly. (To test for doneness, take one out, let it cool briefly and bite into it.) Cool the meringues completely on a rack before storing in an airtight container. (If they seem even slightly warm when stored, they can get soft and sticky.)

To serve, beat the
crème fraîche to medium peaks. Put a dollop on each of four rimmed plates or shallow bowls. Divide the citrus among the plates, being sure to include a few slices of each kind. Spoon the reduced citrus liquid over and around the fruit.
Garnish with a couple of meringues (you will have extra).
You may make the meringues up to 3 days ahead. The fruit and reduced sauce can be refrigerated covered, 2 days before serving.

Serves 4.
2 Stews notes:
*For the meringues, I substituted the cumin for a combination of ground cardamom, ground cinnamon and cayenne pepper, that equaled 1/8 teaspoon when combined. I also omitted the star anise with the citrus, but that is my own personal taste. I made the meringues about half of the recommended size and preferred that size more.
I added a few blackberries and pomegranate seeds for color and flavor.

Winter Citrus with Cumin Meringue and Whipped Crème Fraîche recipe, click here.

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Thursday, December 31, 2009

Crab Cakes With Piment D'espelette Alioi

Gingerbread, sugar cookies, truffles, scones slathered in butter and jam...oh my! I want seafood now. And the only cake I want is a crab cake :-) I think they'll be a perfect way to ring in 2010. I actually can't believe we are entering a new decade in what still seems like a new century. 2010 sounds too much like a year that you would enter in a time machine and not with the clink of Champagne glasses. Alas, the future is now and there is no time like the present to celebrate the day. These crab cakes are great as appetizers, a light meal or for brunch. I prefer mine to be made with top quality crab, with as little filler as possible so that the true star shines through. I was able to get some really fresh crab meat from Whole Foods, but fresh crab meat is available in large food stores in most areas. My favorite recipe comes from Tyler Florence who I have a huge foodie crush on. He just knows how to take a dish and give it his own flavor. His version is simply made and goes perfectly with a Champagne toast. I made an Piment D'espelette Alioi that I created with some experimentation. I used the piment d'espelette that I bought at a Paris food market this fall. To make the sauce quickly, I used prepared olive oil mayonnaise (for ease and also to not use raw egg yolks), piment d'espelette*, garlic, Dijon mustard and lemon juice. This comes together in a snap and any leftover is good on just about anything! For an Asian sauce, I also want to try some chili sauces that Ju, at The Little Teochew and Zurin, from Cherry on a Cake have brought to us. Take a peek at their posts, I'm sure you'll be delighted.

However you ring in the New Year, whether it is quietly at home or at a large party celebration, I wish you the very best for a safe, happy and healthy 2010. Happy New Year! Ching-Ching!!

Crab Cakes
(Adapted from "Tyler's Ultimate", by Tyler Florence)

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely minced
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 pound jumbo lump crab meat
1 1/2 cups fresh bread crumbs (made from 3 or 4 slices of white bread with the crusts removed)
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 large egg white
juice of 1 lime
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus whole leaves for garnish
Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Over medium heat, lightly cover the bottom of a frying pan with olive oil. Add the onions and garlic and cook for 5-7 minutes, until the onion gets somewhat caramelized. Put that into a bowl and fold in the crab meat, bread crumbs,mayonnaise,egg white, lime juice, and cilantro, mixing until just well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Shape the mixture into 6 fat crab cakes. Put them on a plate and put them into the refrigerator to chill.

In a large sautè pan, just cover the bottom with olive oil and heat over medium heat. Add the crab cakes and cook for about 4 minutes on each side, or until they are nice and crisp. Loosely cover if they need more time to cook in the center.

Piment D'espelette Alioi

1 cup good quality olive oil mayonnaise
1 teaspoon, or more to taste, piment d'espelette**
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
olive oil
*piment d'espelette is a mild chili pepper from the French Basque area of France. It has a mildly hot and slightly sweet round flavor.
**Ground cayenne pepper may be substituted, just use about half of the amount.

Into the mayonnaise, mix the pepper, lemon juice, minced garlic, and Dijon mustard. Stir to mix well. Drizzle in a small amount of olive oil to reach the consistency you prefer. Refrigerate until serving.

Makes one cup.

Piment D'espelette
Aioli recipe click here.

Crab Cake recipe click here.

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Monday, December 28, 2009

Please Come For Tea And Scones

Maybe it's the English in me or maybe it is the sheer comfort of tea and scones. I think it is both. Afternoon tea in Greenwich, England last week just warmed me to the soul. Scones with clotted cream or whipped cream and jam are referred to as Cream Tea. Since the USDA frowns when I bring clotted cream back into the US, I whip unsalted butter until it is light and creamy to substitute this delight. Strawberry or raspberry jam are traditionally served with the scones and cream. A nice hot cup of tea never had better company. Fruited scones have raisins or currants which I'm not crazy about. Today I tried golden raisins, which have a milder flavor, and I liked them. You may also put dried cranberries or cherries, or fresh blackberries or blueberries in them. They are not traditional, but they sure are good! There are many scone recipes around with different theories and mine comes from the old American standby, "The Joy of Cooking." I know a winner when I taste it.

Scones
(Adapted from the "Joy of Cooking")

Preheat oven to 450 degrees

Sift together in a large bowl:
1 13/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

Cut into these ingredients, until the size of small peas, using a pastry blender or 2 knives:
1/4 cup cold butter

Beat in a separate bowl:
2 eggs

Reserve 2 tablespoons of this mixture. Stir into the flour/butter mixture and beat in:
1/3 cup cream
1/3 cup raisins, currants, cranberries or any other dried fruit that you desire

Put in any dried fruit and stir. Make a well in the dry ingredients. Pour the liquid into it. Combine with a few swift strokes. Handle the dough as little as possible, or it will be tough. Place on a lightly floured board. Pat into a 3/4-1 inch thick circle. Cut into 2 inch rounds or pie shaped wedges. Brush with the reserved beaten egg and sprinkle with sugar.Place on a greased or nonstick baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes or until golden brown.Makes 12 scones. Serve with whipped unsalted butter and jam.
Scone recipe click here.

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Sunday, December 27, 2009

Time in Greenwich

There was a definite nip in the sunny December air as we took the tube to Greenwich, England from London.
Wanting to take a break from the madding shopping crowds, we rode to this quintessential English town that is just 6 miles from London. A short walk brought us to the Old Royal Navel College which stands on the grounds of the birthplace of Henry Vlll, Queen Mary l and Queen Elizabeth l. This was originally the location of Greenwich Palace, or Palace of Placentia. The Old Royal Navel College, designed by the renowned English architect Christopher Wren, was originally built in 1696-1712 as the Greenwich Hospital. The most spectacular parts of the Old Royal Navel College are the Baroque Painted Hall and the Chapel. Services are held here every Sunday. We were here on a Saturday so we didn't get to hear this magnificent organ that is flanked by Grecian columns. The Spiral Tulip Staircase is thought to be the first spiral staircase in Britain. Some believe it is haunted, but these are my friends walking down...I promise. Outside looking up, you can see the Royal Observatory at the top of the hill. This was the original location of the Greenwich Castle and was a favorite place for the insatiable Henry the Vlll to bring his mistresses, since they could easily be shuttled between the Palace and Castle. After a steep climb to the top we arrived at the Observatory. A very lively gentleman was giving some background history, by the Prime Meridian, 0 degrees longitude line. Until 1954 Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) was determined here. There is a museum here that takes us through time, literally and the process of how latitude and longitude were devised. After touring the museum, it was time for tea at the Pavilion Tea House. It wasn't a fancy place, but the hot tea and cream scone couldn't have tasted better on this chilly afternoon. By the time we finished, the short winter's day was winding down. The walk back down into town brought us to a majestic gate to the streets lit in Christmas regalia. It was a wonderful day with my friends. My only regret was that I had brought my point and shoot camera with me instead of my DSLR, which my back thanked, but my eyes objected to. Each time I don't bring my DSLR, I swear I'll never do it again, but I do :-(

Next time.

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