Dee's Tapanade by Canal Saint-Martin

It seemed like dumb luck, serendipitous dumb luck. My friends, Dee, Mary Jo and I were having dinner at Astier in Paris, and decided to spend the afternoon in the area. Getting off at the Republique metro stop, we walked around and then decided to stop along the Canal Saint-Martin for a few minutes. All seemed quiet on this late fall afternoon, as people walked across the footbridge and on the cobblestone walkway. It was peaceful, until we heard a huge rush of water. Looking up, I realized the canal locks were operating to allow the passage of a few barges. The canal was ordered to be built by Napoleon I in 1802, to supply fresh water to Paris and the construction was funded by a new tax on wine. We watched the locks fill up with the barges patiently waiting to continue their voyage down the canal. As the sun filtered through the trees, Dee pulled out a container of homemade tapanade from her bag. I had a ficelle au fromage in my bag and Mary Jo had something to drink and glasses. Parfait...a picnic was made! If I'm ever stuck on a deserted island, I want to be there with a flight attendant. They always have food and water in their bags, just waiting for the right moment to appear. I suppose it comes from years of travel and always having to be prepared for the unexpected or the opportune. I don't think we could have planned it any better if we had tried.

Dee's Tapanade

1/2 pound mixed black olives, pitted (Kalamata olives work well)
2 anchovy fillets
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1-2 tablespoon capers
1 small handful basil leaves, rinsed
1 small handful fresh parsley, rinsed
1 tablespoon lemon juice, freshly squeezed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Process to combine, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl, until the mixture becomes a coarse paste. Transfer to a bowl and serve at room temperature.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Water, Water Everywhere...and a Nice Dip

After almost 2 weeks straight working and trying to make up lost time due to the volcano flight cancellations, I came home from London Saturday to a "boil water order." A water main break affecting 2 million households has left us boiling our water for the last 4 days. At least it is water and not oil that is spewing out of the ground. I've spent a lot of time looking for bottled water and found it in dribs and drabs, mostly sparkling water. Untreated water is coming out of our taps and it is all a little confusing. The officials say it is OK to shower with it, but to use hand sanitizer after washing your hands in it. So what kind of ick is in the shower water?? There is a slight fishy smell (ewww!) Dishes have to be washed in boiled water or use disposable plates and utensils. It pays to be creative with one dish meals without ingredients that have to be washed....kind of like camping at home. I had some mascarpone cheese in the refrigerator and organic chives in the garden I could use to make an appetizer. I chopped some of the chives and infused them in olive oil overnight. Using some French bread to make crostini, it all came together with little prep and very little water. It goes great with a sparkling water/juice spritzer, or whatever floats your boat. Cheers!


Mascarpone and Chive Dip

4 ounces mascarpone cheese
3 ounces extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon snipped chives
1 teaspoon pink peppercorns
sea salt to taste

Combine the chives in the olive oil and infuse overnight. When ready to serve, place the mascarpone cheese on a serving plate or shallow bowl and drizzle the chive infused olive oil over it. Top with pink peppercorns and lightly sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with crostini, sliced French bread or crackers.
Crostini

French bread slices, 1/4 inch thick
extra virgin olive for brushing
sea salt

Put the French bread slices on a baking sheet in a single layer and brush with olive oil to coat on one side. Put in a preheated 400 degree oven and toast until golden brown. Lightly sprinkle with sea salt.

Store in an airtight container.

Mascarpone and Chive Dip recipe, click here.

Baked Chèvre With Pink Peppercorns

Warm baked chèvre or goat cheese, sliced and breaded is a staple on many French bistro menus, and I'm glad of it. It's creamy and tangy taste just gets better when warmed. Usually served on top of toasted bread with salad greens with a light vinaigrette, you'd think it couldn't get any better. I wanted to serve it warm but not individually, so I added in a little cream and some mixed shredded cheese. That mixture went into a small French casserole to heat under the broiler to form a light golden crust. A few pink peppercorns that I bought in Paris at a favorite spice shop, sprinkled on top gave it a punch of color and peppery taste. I roasted some baby red peppers, and plunked one right into the warm cheese. Bread sticks served along the side work well for dipping.
Baked Chèvre with Pink Peppercorns

4 ounces goat cheese log, room temperature
1 tablespoon cream
1 tablespoon finely grated mixed Italian blend cheese
1 teaspoon pink peppercorns

In a bowl mix together the goat cheese, cream and grated cheese. Put in an oven proof baking dish such as a large ramekin. Place on a tray or foil and broil in toaster oven for about 5 minutes or until golden brown. Don't let it get too hot or the cheese will "break" and become grainy.

Top with pink peppercorns and garnish with a baby roasted pepper. Serve with bread sticks, crostini or crackers.

Makes about 5 ounces.Hand painted French plate is Terre è Provence.
Small French baking dish (covered) is Insea.
Both were bought at Marshall's. I love Marshall's!

Baked Chèvre with Pink Peppercorns recipe, click here.

Men With Mussels, Curried Mussels That Is

There is a restaurant in Paris called Academie de la Biere, or literally translated, The Beer Academy. It sounds like the ultimate Man Cave, but it is a fun restaurant with half as many beer choices than days on the calendar! Now there's a thought! The long tables are often filled with young men as they "study" the choices at the Academie! You can click on the pic to see the many beers to choose from. I'm not a beer drinker and always look for recommendations, since some of these beers are from Belgium micro breweries. Sometimes you may even be given a sample before committing...what's not to like about that? If you can't decide, you can always default to wine. And then there are the mussels and frites...mussels meunière, mussels moutarde, curried mussels...and even m-m-m-more choices. If you are lucky you have a friend beside you who likes to share!! I always look them over, making sure to only eat the ones that open, since all it takes is one bad one to send you to a place you don't want to go to!Yesterday I went to my local fish market and bought 2 pounds of Prince Edward Island mussels. I wanted curried mussels and thought I'd add some coconut milk to give them a different punch. With Asian undertones they don't taste like their Parisian inspiration, but they are delicious alone as a starter or as I had them, with linguine.

Curried Mussels With Coconut Milk
(I adapted this from an epicurious.com recipe and changed some of the ingredients for my taste.)

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup chopped shallots
2 tablespoons Madras curry powder*
1 1/2 cups dry white wine**
1 14 ounce can unsweetened coconut milk
1 3-4 inch piece lemon grass, sliced lengthwise
2 small bay leaves
2 pounds mussels, cleaned, scrubbed and debearded
sea salt to taste
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

*The quality of the curry powder defines this this dish, so use the best you can get.
**I chose a Chardonnay for its fuller flavor that works well curry.
Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add shallots and curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add coconut milk, wine, lemon grass and bay leaves; simmer 10 minutes. Add mussels. Increase heat, cover and boil until mussels open, about 6 minutes. Using tongs, place mussels in 4 bowls (discard any mussels that do not open). Boil sauce until slightly thickened, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes or more. Season with salt and pepper; discard bay leaves. Spoon sauce over mussels. Sprinkle with cilantro.

Serves 4.

Click here for tips for cleaning mussels.
Curried Mussels With Coconut Milk recipe (pdf)

A Floral Appetizer

Inspiration seems to be found everywhere this spring. I found some dried Asian hibiscus flowers at Trader Joe's last week and bought them without even knowing what they tasted like. They just looked so exotic as they appeared to be dancing in the bag. I also grabbed some dried apricots and dried candied ginger. I opened the bag in the car out of curiosity and was surprised that they tasted really good...kind of tart, sweet and fruity. With their outreaching arms, it was like eating a fruity calamari. When I got home, I experimented and added a dried apricot in the bottom of the hibiscus flower. It was good, but a little bare. I chopped some of the candied ginger and added some on top. Not leaving well enough alone, I then mixed equal parts of cream cheese and goat cheese together and tossed in some of the sweet and peppery chopped ginger. It looked so good as I piped it onto the apricot in the center of the hibiscus flower. A green Pepita on top added the perfect touch.Yum...it was a visual and tasty delight. As they reach toward the sun, these floral buds can enliven a cheese board, salad or stand on their own as an appetizer as they transition us into the glory of summer. Bon appetit!

Some gentle thoughts on spring.....

The sea of spring,
Rising and falling,
All the day long.

Buson

In the intervals

Of rough wind and rain,
The first cherry-blossoms.

Chora

Silent flowers

Speak also
To that obedient ear within.

Onitsura

Written and photographed by Diane.