A Sunday in Paris and Dinner at Les Cailloux

Before the canopy of blue sky arrived, there was a mist in the air as we started our day. I ran back for my umbrella before heading out. While walking to the metro stop, the cool moisture in the air suddenly smelled like paint. The fine mist of Mother Nature turned into graffiti artists spray paint. It was Sunday in Paris and most stores are closed except in the busy tourist areas. Three artists were painting the metal security gates of this closed book/magazine shop. Stepping off of the metro at the Arc de Triomphe, the skies were lightening as the ever present dancers entertained with their music and moves. The police were on horseback, but the demonstrations of last week were just a memory today. Walking along the Champs Élysées and the surrounding streets, there was fashion. There were faces And there were feet. Halloween had a small, but sweet presence. If you looked closely, you'd see these whimsically scary mosaics were made entirely from candy. As we walked along, the skies turned blue and white puffy clouds floated by. It evolved into a beautiful fall Sunday in Paris. It was perfect for bike riding. Or not. Everywhere there was an art exhibit. There is art in all forms in this beautiful and magical city. And fun of course! Chestnuts roasting on an open fire weren't quite as enticing as our next stop, Laduree. There was a long line going in, but there is plenty of eye candy to look at while waiting. And so many choices! With bags in hand, some of us couldn't wait for the reward of braving the crowded line. Michelle thought the cassis-violette flavor was heavenly, Kim and I liked our caramel à la fleur de sel and chocolat macarons, while Laura's praliné noisettes completed our rhapsody of flavors. Smiling, we continued our walk down the rue de Rivoli which is full of shops. This scrumptious scarf could be yours for a mere €200. Or not. I had the job of guarding one of the bags while my friends tried on the scarves that were just as colorful and yummy as the macaron menu. That was a safe place for me to be, because if I buy one more scarf, I'll need an addition to my closet! Thank goodness the shops were closing and dinner time neared. An apperitif sounded good to all of us. The cafés along rue de Rivoli can be pricey since this area is full of tourists, exclusive hotels, shops and the Louvre is nearby. We scouted out one that seemed more reasonable than the others and sat inside. It felt good to sit down. Our pilot, Laura treated. She is not only beautiful, fun and talented, she is also generous! Evening comes early in the fall and the waning full moon rested magestically over the pyramid of the Louvre. I was meeting my friends Rick and Brenda at Les Cailloux for dinner in the Butte-aux-Caille part of Paris. So back to the hotel I went to freshen up and make my way to the restaurant. There was one lone graffiti artist left to finish this masterpiece, as I stopped to take another peek before walking up to the butte. I arrived at Les Cailloux hungry and thirsty from my full afternoon and anxious to see my friends. Italian food in Paris is a nice break, and this restaurant is fabulous! After hugs and kisses, I sat down and was presented the menu and water served from an Absolut Vodka bottle. An interesting touch. This is one of Rick and Brenda's favorite Italian restaurants and they highly recommended the eggplant layered with mozzarella cheese and a hearty tomato sauce. We decided to share that and mushrooms with squid ink served with polenta. They were perfect choices that went well together. Just watch out for the squid ink moustache! For my main course I chose a plat du jour, Linguine with Cèpes or porcini mushrooms. They are in season now, so how could I resist? Tossed with garlic and olive oil, it brought a tear of happiness to my eye ;-) Rick had a Pesto Rigatoni and Brenda ordered Spinach Ravioli. All were warm, hearty and delicious. Someone at the table next to us ordered calimari that looked like it was just plucked from the ocean....ah, next time! Rick told me all about the restaurant from the years they have been coming here. He always ordered what the round, Italian owner suggested and was never disappointed. How could you be when the food was made with such character and love and served with a side of stories. We were too full for dessert if you can even imagine, but I am told the panna cotta is a must. Before heading out for the walk back, a stop at le toilette was a continuation of this charming restaurant.Outside, the night air was fresh and brisk and welcoming as Rick and Brenda walked me back to the hotel.

It was a full day, a full evening and then a full flight home the next day. I know there must be angels, because one of our passengers opened up his large, light green box and offered us several of these during our long flight back to Boston! Big Smiles! Trumpets playing!!

Laduree

Les Cailloux,

• 58, rue des Cinq Diamants, Butte aux Cailles, Paris, France
• 01 45 80 15 08

Special thanks to Laura for the pics of the bronze door handle and the full moon over the Louvre. You and your iphone are a dynamic duo!

Demonstrations and Dinner at La Régalade

It was a day of demonstrations, strikes and terror alerts in Paris. Transportation was at a very reduced schedule and streets were blocked off. Michelle and I had planned on meeting my friend and artist, Rick Tulka at Café Le Select at 3pm for coffee. A last minute email came from him saying he'd come by our hotel, as Le Select was in the thick of the demonstrations. We sat outside at a nearby café catching up while background music from traffic, sirens and paddy wagons rushing by filled any pauses in conversation. Traffic was diverted away from the demonstrations and was heavy....sirens were nonstop. Demonstrators are often fodder for Rick's caricature work, but this one was big, and it was just better to avoid it. You can see some of his work from past demonstrations here, here and here. We talked over coffee and then walked awhile...Michelle and I on foot, Rick with his bike. We kissed and parted since Michelle and I were meeting our friend, Paula, at 7:30 for our dinner reservation at La Régalade. She was walking from the Right Bank to this out of the way restaurant near the Périphérique on the Left Bank. We hadn't eaten all day and were ready for a great dinner. There was a fall chill in the air as we walked, that quickly disappeared once we realized we had taken a left instead of a right (no political connotation here!) and had walked quite a ways out of the way. I got some nice pics of this old stone stairway and ornate doorway that I would have missed otherwise! OK, enough looking at the bright side...our blood sugar was getting low and we started rooting around in my backpack for renegade cough drops or gum or anything!! Like manna from heaven, I remembered I had a loaf of Poilâne bread in my bag! Ah, our saviour! We stopped for a minute, regrouped and had a bite. Revitalized, La Régalade was finally in sight. When we walked into this warm and traditional bistro, Paula was waiting and had just been seated at a cozy corner table. This bistro became an institution under renowned chef Yves Camdeborde. It is now in the very able hands of chef Bruno Doucet. As with any restaurant, fame can play a wavering and fickle hand. I was never fortunate enough to have dined here in the heyday '90's, but we enjoyed our meal immensely. La Régalade has become so popular that another one has opened on the tony Right Bank. I was glad to have scored reservations here that I made last month. As we settled in, menus were brought. So as to not have any unpleasant surprises, Paula looked up a few words in her well loved and well worn book of French food translations. Some can be tricky.Then a rustic terrine and crusty bread was placed at each table to welcome and soothe immediate appetites. Were we happy...it was tasty and plentiful!! Along came a crock of cornichons and onions to accompany the terrine. Paula had Coquilles St. Jaques for her starter. Michelle ordered a cassoulet of escargots that was topped with an egg. I avoided the egg....sometimes she calls me a Faux Foodie!I had creme of chestnut soup that arrived with a bowl of fois gras, cheese and chives, before the warm soup was ladled on top. All were superb! Michelle and I both ordered the breast of pork that was on a bed of lentils du Puy. Yes, it was a little fatty, but I think that pretty much comes with the territory. There was plenty to eat.Paula had a white fish and beans in a broth with tomatoes. It was delicate and and rich all at once.Since we had ordered the 3 course, €32 prix fixe menu, dessert was a certain. Of course, we ordered 3 different ones so we could try each others. Michelle had the much recommended Grande Marnier Souffle. Paula had poached spiced figs topped with vanilla ice cream and a thin wafer. And I had to get my chocolate fix, which I thought was the best!! It was a warm chocolate cake, layered with a dark chocolate quenelle and topped with a very thin wafer. All of this was on a vanilla tea crème anglaise. I was in chocolate heaven!As the evening wore on, the restaurant was packed with people waiting out of the door. After paying the very reasonable l'addition, we called for a taxi with the memory of the cough drop search and the long walk far behind us! Amen!!

La Régalade
Rick Tulka and The Creative Life of the Parisian Cafe video, CBS Morning News

Peach and Fig Jam with Thyme

I hadn't planned on making jam, but a bowl of perfect peaches and organic figs sat on my table and I was leaving for 6 days.....2 Paris trips, back to back. It was too much fruit to take with me and it wouldn't be so perfect after a few trips through airport security checks. I had just read La Table de Nana's blog on Lavender Thyme Gelée and loved the addition of thyme into the jelly. Giving in to the power of suggestion, I thought a Peach and Fig Jam with Thyme sounded heavenly. In between packing for my trip, I started peeling peaches and cutting up figs. I saved one for a pre-flight snack :-) since they really were perfectly ripe, sweet and had a firm texture. I already had jars ready to go and thyme growing in the garden, so this went pretty quickly. Often I use cherry juice in recipes and used some instead of water to cook the fruit in. Jotting down the ingredients and times, I finished the jam and went off to work for the week. Knowing I had this treat waiting for me, I picked up a loaf of Poilâne bread and a fresh block of sel de mer butter from Paris. Ooh-la-la....what a breakfast this made! The butter with its delicate crunch of salt just sings a chorus with the sweetness of the peaches and figs. And thyme is the surprise guest.Homemade goodness in a jar. I decided to give a few away and couldn't resist using a copy I made of a French pêche label I bought at a Paris flea market a few weeks ago. Sometimes it just all comes together in an unexpected way.

Peach and Fig Jam with Thyme

4 1/2 cups peaches, peeled and roughly chopped into 1/2 inch pieces (about 5 large peaches)
5 fresh figs, cut in half if small, or into quarters if large
1 small handful of fresh thyme*, rinsed
1/2 cup unsweetened cherry juice or water
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 envelope powdered fruit pectin (from a 1.75 ounce package that contains 2 envelopes)
2 cups sugar
4-8 ounce canning jars
*Use about 15 sprigs or add more if you want a stronger thyme flavor. I used lemon thyme which has a mild flavor.

Divide the chopped peaches in half and mash one half with a potato masher or the back of a fork. Put both batches of the peaches in a 4 quart pot and add the figs, thyme, cherry juice (or water), and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat for about 5-10 minutes or until the fruit is tender. Cool to room temperature and then stir in the pectin until dissolved. Over high heat bring the mixture to a full rolling boil and boil for 1 minute, while stirring. Add the sugar and boil for 1 more minute, stirring constantly to prevent burning on the bottom of the pot. Ladle the hot mixture into prepared jars, leaving 1/2 inch space at the top. Wipe off the rims and seal with lids. As the jars seal, you'll hear a popping sound. Let cool to room temperature and store refrigerated.

Makes 4-8 ounce jars.

A Vide-Grenier and No Reservations

We had intended to go to Porte de Vanve flea market on this early Saturday morning until we saw a vide-grenier not far from us. My friends ML, Lenny and I set out armed with reusable shopping bags and bubble wrap, and were hoping to put both to good use.
A vide-grenier is like a yard sale with a few professional dealers mixed in. You won't find upscale merchandise here but if you are willing to sort through the junk you can find many treasures. But then again, one persons junk is another ones treasure. Sifting through the vide-grenier can be more difficult than a flea market since you have to spot an item that can be hidden in a jumble of castoffs. The reward is that you can find a gem for chump change. And that we did! ML and Lenny have a great eye and we often find ourselves reaching for the same things. It usually ends up with the person who wants it the most. It was a chilly morning and I didn't have gloves with me and was hoping I'd find some that were ready to start a new life. No luck, but there were many shoes looking for souls. As we passed by one of my favorite boulangeries, I had to resort to a baguette fresh from the oven to warm my cold hands. Not a bad compromise! All along the side of the street and under the train tracks, tables of goods were set up. Here you could buy a doll or just look like one. While bargaining for this fois gras dish, I got to know the dealer a little during a conversation he struck up. I wasn't sure which was more charming, him or the dish! I can be a little daunted by size and weight of what I buy....we do have to cart these things home, after all. ML is not daunted by anything and she has a highly trained eye which is a good, if not a dangerous combination. She found these gorgeous pieces of iron at Porte de Vanve the week before. They are way heavier than they look...trust me! Good thing these vintage linen postal delivery bags were lighter. I love the look and the history behind them. The fragile items give the biggest challenge to get home. I nicknamed Lenny and I, Chip and Chipper and won't go into the details...it's too painful! But it is all worth it. We found jars, jugs, a butter keeper, berry bowls, pitchers, lion head bowls, spoons and a grapevine corkscrew. These containers for musical instrument pieces are very decorative objet d'art. ML found some mid century posters from a school that I have first dibs on, but I didn't get any pics. With full bags, fun times and money left in the wallet, we headed back to the hotel. Thinking about dinner, we tried unsuccessfully to make dinner reservations. It was a Saturday evening and all of our choices were complet. We decided to make our way to Relais de l'Entrecôte, a favorite fallback that doesn't take reservations and specializes in steak and frites. A perfect ending to a full day!

Relais de l'Entrecôte

Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves
Addresses: avenue Georges Lafenestre & avenue Marc Sangnier, 75014 Paris
Phone: (+33) 06.88.64.82.77; E-mail: pucesdevanves@free.fr
Every weekend of the year, 350 stall holders await you: furniture, trinkets, paintings, fabric, glassware, time pieces, jewelry, military objects, photography, music, and curios. In the heart of Paris, an exciting place that will capture your imagination. It's the place to visit for flea market enthusiasts.
Hours: Weekends; avenue Marc Sangnier until 1 p.m.; avenue Georges Lafenestre all day.
Porte de Vanves (line 13) Metro

Oven Roasted Tomatoes

I've been making tomatoes every which way this summer and fall. I've used tomatoes in fresh sauces, cooked sauces, sliced with basil and olive oil, mixed into recipes and put into many a sandwich. Then when I can't keep up with it all, I oven roast firm plum and cherry tomatoes. They aren't as dry as sun dried tomatoes, but are very similar. Roasted with garlic, fresh thyme, olive oil and sea salt they last for a week in the refrigerator. A pinch of sugar caramelizes them slightly for a subtle sweetness. They can then be used in many of the same ways as fresh tomatoes, but give an extra punch of condensed flavor. Last week when I visited La Tête dans les Olives, the Parisian olive oil store, I was served dried tomatoes with slices of Pecorino cheese. Drizzled with a little olive oil and a grating of pepper, this combination becomes an easy and tasty appetizer. This time I used my Freres Rabito olive oil from La Tête dans les Olives. My latest passion du jour is flavored olive oils, and think basil flavored olive gives the tomatoes an extra dimension of flavor. Whole Foods and specialty food stores carry a range of flavors. I seem to have every flavor of olive oil from Oliviers & Co. and experiment with different ones to dress up these tomatoes. Simple pleasures.

Oven Roasted Tomatoes

4 cups plum or cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 TBSP fresh thyme, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1/2 tsp sugar (to promote caramelizing)
sea salt to taste

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Toss halved tomatoes in a bowl with olive oil, thyme, garlic and sugar. Spread in an even layer on the baking sheet.

3. Roast 30 minutes at 325 degrees and then raise the temperature to 375 degrees and roast 10 more minutes. They should caramelize without charring, so adjust time accordingly. To finish, turn off oven and leave in for 10 minutes. Take out of oven, salt to taste and cool to room temperature. Sprinkle with sea salt to taste.They may be used immediately or refrigerated for up to 1 week.