A Brocante and Dinner at L'Amuse Bouche

The golden fall leaves settled on the well worn forks and spoons, showing off both their age and beauty at this brocante or flea market, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Lenny and I weren't sure what we'd find here, but as a friend recently said to me, you can't win the lottery if you don't buy a ticket. Sometimes you hit it big and today we weren't quite sure. There were plenty of interesting things, but the prices seemed a little high. If you wanted some bling, these hooks reflected their metallic aura in the patina of the mirror. There were rugs and rings. Perfume and pigs. And more pigs to save your pennies in. There were games I knew how to play, and some I didn't. I've never used a zig-zag corkscrew, but I think it is a game I might be able to figure out! Lenny and I both loved these metal chairs for either inside or out. I imagine we couldn't get them through airport security though, for the plane ride home. Maybe they will still be around when I finally get my Parisian apartment.....a girl can dream right?! Since this brocante was set up in the neighborhood streets, along the way the stores were still doing their business. I couldn't help but notice the bakeries and food stores, since the enticing aromas drifted out onto the street among the vendors clocks and faces, and books and globes. Then there was more spooning. And I can't even comment on this lamp, but can think of a few good ones!! We didn't really hit it big, the only thing I parted euros for was a scarf. I know, I know...I promised not to get another one, but it was only 5 euros, and it matched my outfit.

By this time the sun was getting low in the autumn sky and we were meeting a friend, Nöelle for dinner. The previous week our concierge had made a reservation for us at L'Ardoise for this evening. When he called to confirm, he was told there was no reservation. When he pressed further they got their knickers in a twist, but it was finally determined the restaurant made a mistake. OK...it wasn't the first time I'd been without a reservation on a Saturday night in Paris, but it was the first time a restaurant had penciled it in for the wrong day. After some quick phone calls, we secured (thank you, Phillipe!) the last table at a very small, neighborhood restaurant. L'Amuse-Bouche is run by a couple. Giles Lambert is the chef, and his wife manages the tables. We were the first to arrive at the cozy restaurant, and it was a relief to see the "Table Réservée" place card. The seating was a little tight and our table for 3 was nestled snuggly by the door. Madame immediately brought menus and an amuse-bouche of savory pastries, along with a brusque request for Nöelle to scoot her chair in. I think she runs a tight ship! After we were settled, Monsier Lambert came out of the kitchen to shake our hands and welcome us as if we had just arrived at his home. The warm color of the walls, the yellow plates and evening light added to the ambience, but made all of my photos an unappetizing yellow, so please forgive the glare. For our first course, Nöelle had langoustine ravioli, Lenny had pâté with smoked duck, served with crusty bread and arugula, and I had tiny mussels in a casserole, which I didn't care for. We agreed that Lenny's pâté was the best choice. For our main course, Nöelle chose paupiettes de lièvre, which is a rabbit dish that is not often on a menu. It was served with mushrooms and mashed potatoes and she thought it was very nice. Lenny and I both had a croustillant pouch filled with lamb and mushrooms in a sauce, that sat on a serving of mashed potatoes and topped with crispy vegetables. It was pure, home cooked comfort food.
They are known for their dessert soufflés, so Lenny had a pistachio soufflé that had a layer of chocolate at the bottom,and Nöelle had a Grand Marnier soufflé that came with its own bottle of Grand Marnier to pour in the center! Since a meal is rarely complete for me without chocolate, I had a warm chocolate cake with crème anglaise and ice cream, that was garnished with fresh figs. All in all, we dined well and left happy!
L'Amuse-Bouche:
186,rue du Chateau, Paris, France
01 43 35 31 61 Paris

Brocantes:
http://www.spam.fr

Fall Maple Leaf Cookies

The autumn leaves are at full peak in my small New England coastal town. Tourists, or Leaf Peepers as we call them, come by the busload to see natures full regalia. When a few of us on my crew wanted to show our appreciation to the concierges and airport agents in Paris, we wanted to bring them a sampling of our America. Last year I made Eiffel Tower, Merci and Au Revoir cookies. This year we brought bagels and cream cheese, chocolate chip cookies, carrot cake, peanut butter chocolate kiss cookies and brownies. As I looked at the brilliant colors around town, I decided to also make maple leaf shaped sugar cookies. I had four colors of petal dust I had gotten at Christmas time, that just happened to be colors of fall leaves. You cannot go wrong by brushing on these colors in any combination. I started at the edges, with a food dedicated paint brush, and worked inward using the colors singularly and mixing them. The metallic gold and copper blended into the green and mango orange.Each one was as varied and different as the leaves on the trees. I layered the brownies and chocolate chip cookies first in the bottom of the gold box that was lined with decorative tissue paper. Next were the fall colored leaf cookies. The box came with a gold grosgrain ribbon that I tucked a leaf bouquet into, which helped bring a little bit more of New England to our friends in Paris. I think they really loved tasting a bit of our culture as much as we loved showing our appreciation. Merci!!

Maple Leaf Sugar Cookies

For the cookies:
2 1/4 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
12 tablespoons unsalted butter (room temperature)
1 large egg
1 teaspoon almond extract

For the color:
3-4 fall colors of petal dust
a #6 round watercolor brush

In large bowl or food processor, cream sugar and butter together until fluffy. Add egg, and almond extract until well blended. Add the flour and salt and mix until it begins to form a ball, scraping down the sides of the bowl if needed. If the dough is too dry, add a few drops of water. Scrape dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap and press together to form a thick flat disc. Wrap well and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and butter a baking sheet.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about 1/8 inch thick, or desired thickness. The dough needs to be just the right temperature to roll and cut properly. If it is too cold, it is hard to roll, and if it is too soft it becomes difficult to cut and pick up. Roll any scraps back into a ball and chill again. Use as little flour as possible to roll out, so they don't get tough. After cutting, place on a baking sheet and bake for 8-12 minutes or until just lightly browned. Remove from oven and let cool on wire rack. I use an insulated baking sheet to prevent the edges from getting too brown.*

Makes 4 dozen, 3 inch (1/8 inch thick) cookies.

*My tips: Keep dough chilled just enough so it is easy to roll and cut, but not so cold that it is hard and cracks. I like to roll between 2 layers of plastic wrap. This keeps the dough from sticking without extra flour that makes the dough tough. I even roll it to desired thickness, between 2 layers of plastic wrap before chilling. Then when it comes out of the refrigerator, you won't have to roll and you'll be ready to cut. If the dough warms up too much while working with it, you can slide the whole layer onto a cookie sheet and chill, without disturbing what you've already done. Also, bake sugar cookies on insulated pans for even browning.

Coloring the cookies: To color the cookies, use 3-4 fall color petal dust colors. I used Super Gold, Copper, Moss Green, and Mango, Color about 6 cookies at a time by placing them on parchment or a silicone baking mat. Lightly dip the paintbrush into the petal dust and tap off any excess. Starting on the edges, lightly dust the cookies using any combination of colors you choose or blending several colors together. Vary the colors on each cookie for a more interest.
For the petal dust:
KitchenKrafts.com

Gold Box by Hallmark

A Sunday in Paris and Dinner at Les Cailloux

Before the canopy of blue sky arrived, there was a mist in the air as we started our day. I ran back for my umbrella before heading out. While walking to the metro stop, the cool moisture in the air suddenly smelled like paint. The fine mist of Mother Nature turned into graffiti artists spray paint. It was Sunday in Paris and most stores are closed except in the busy tourist areas. Three artists were painting the metal security gates of this closed book/magazine shop. Stepping off of the metro at the Arc de Triomphe, the skies were lightening as the ever present dancers entertained with their music and moves. The police were on horseback, but the demonstrations of last week were just a memory today. Walking along the Champs Élysées and the surrounding streets, there was fashion. There were faces And there were feet. Halloween had a small, but sweet presence. If you looked closely, you'd see these whimsically scary mosaics were made entirely from candy. As we walked along, the skies turned blue and white puffy clouds floated by. It evolved into a beautiful fall Sunday in Paris. It was perfect for bike riding. Or not. Everywhere there was an art exhibit. There is art in all forms in this beautiful and magical city. And fun of course! Chestnuts roasting on an open fire weren't quite as enticing as our next stop, Laduree. There was a long line going in, but there is plenty of eye candy to look at while waiting. And so many choices! With bags in hand, some of us couldn't wait for the reward of braving the crowded line. Michelle thought the cassis-violette flavor was heavenly, Kim and I liked our caramel à la fleur de sel and chocolat macarons, while Laura's praliné noisettes completed our rhapsody of flavors. Smiling, we continued our walk down the rue de Rivoli which is full of shops. This scrumptious scarf could be yours for a mere €200. Or not. I had the job of guarding one of the bags while my friends tried on the scarves that were just as colorful and yummy as the macaron menu. That was a safe place for me to be, because if I buy one more scarf, I'll need an addition to my closet! Thank goodness the shops were closing and dinner time neared. An apperitif sounded good to all of us. The cafés along rue de Rivoli can be pricey since this area is full of tourists, exclusive hotels, shops and the Louvre is nearby. We scouted out one that seemed more reasonable than the others and sat inside. It felt good to sit down. Our pilot, Laura treated. She is not only beautiful, fun and talented, she is also generous! Evening comes early in the fall and the waning full moon rested magestically over the pyramid of the Louvre. I was meeting my friends Rick and Brenda at Les Cailloux for dinner in the Butte-aux-Caille part of Paris. So back to the hotel I went to freshen up and make my way to the restaurant. There was one lone graffiti artist left to finish this masterpiece, as I stopped to take another peek before walking up to the butte. I arrived at Les Cailloux hungry and thirsty from my full afternoon and anxious to see my friends. Italian food in Paris is a nice break, and this restaurant is fabulous! After hugs and kisses, I sat down and was presented the menu and water served from an Absolut Vodka bottle. An interesting touch. This is one of Rick and Brenda's favorite Italian restaurants and they highly recommended the eggplant layered with mozzarella cheese and a hearty tomato sauce. We decided to share that and mushrooms with squid ink served with polenta. They were perfect choices that went well together. Just watch out for the squid ink moustache! For my main course I chose a plat du jour, Linguine with Cèpes or porcini mushrooms. They are in season now, so how could I resist? Tossed with garlic and olive oil, it brought a tear of happiness to my eye ;-) Rick had a Pesto Rigatoni and Brenda ordered Spinach Ravioli. All were warm, hearty and delicious. Someone at the table next to us ordered calimari that looked like it was just plucked from the ocean....ah, next time! Rick told me all about the restaurant from the years they have been coming here. He always ordered what the round, Italian owner suggested and was never disappointed. How could you be when the food was made with such character and love and served with a side of stories. We were too full for dessert if you can even imagine, but I am told the panna cotta is a must. Before heading out for the walk back, a stop at le toilette was a continuation of this charming restaurant.Outside, the night air was fresh and brisk and welcoming as Rick and Brenda walked me back to the hotel.

It was a full day, a full evening and then a full flight home the next day. I know there must be angels, because one of our passengers opened up his large, light green box and offered us several of these during our long flight back to Boston! Big Smiles! Trumpets playing!!

Laduree

Les Cailloux,

• 58, rue des Cinq Diamants, Butte aux Cailles, Paris, France
• 01 45 80 15 08

Special thanks to Laura for the pics of the bronze door handle and the full moon over the Louvre. You and your iphone are a dynamic duo!