A Brocante and Dinner at L'Amuse Bouche

The golden fall leaves settled on the well worn forks and spoons, showing off both their age and beauty at this brocante or flea market, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Lenny and I weren't sure what we'd find here, but as a friend recently said to me, you can't win the lottery if you don't buy a ticket. Sometimes you hit it big and today we weren't quite sure. There were plenty of interesting things, but the prices seemed a little high. If you wanted some bling, these hooks reflected their metallic aura in the patina of the mirror. There were rugs and rings. Perfume and pigs. And more pigs to save your pennies in. There were games I knew how to play, and some I didn't. I've never used a zig-zag corkscrew, but I think it is a game I might be able to figure out! Lenny and I both loved these metal chairs for either inside or out. I imagine we couldn't get them through airport security though, for the plane ride home. Maybe they will still be around when I finally get my Parisian apartment.....a girl can dream right?! Since this brocante was set up in the neighborhood streets, along the way the stores were still doing their business. I couldn't help but notice the bakeries and food stores, since the enticing aromas drifted out onto the street among the vendors clocks and faces, and books and globes. Then there was more spooning. And I can't even comment on this lamp, but can think of a few good ones!! We didn't really hit it big, the only thing I parted euros for was a scarf. I know, I know...I promised not to get another one, but it was only 5 euros, and it matched my outfit.

By this time the sun was getting low in the autumn sky and we were meeting a friend, Nöelle for dinner. The previous week our concierge had made a reservation for us at L'Ardoise for this evening. When he called to confirm, he was told there was no reservation. When he pressed further they got their knickers in a twist, but it was finally determined the restaurant made a mistake. OK...it wasn't the first time I'd been without a reservation on a Saturday night in Paris, but it was the first time a restaurant had penciled it in for the wrong day. After some quick phone calls, we secured (thank you, Phillipe!) the last table at a very small, neighborhood restaurant. L'Amuse-Bouche is run by a couple. Giles Lambert is the chef, and his wife manages the tables. We were the first to arrive at the cozy restaurant, and it was a relief to see the "Table Réservée" place card. The seating was a little tight and our table for 3 was nestled snuggly by the door. Madame immediately brought menus and an amuse-bouche of savory pastries, along with a brusque request for Nöelle to scoot her chair in. I think she runs a tight ship! After we were settled, Monsier Lambert came out of the kitchen to shake our hands and welcome us as if we had just arrived at his home. The warm color of the walls, the yellow plates and evening light added to the ambience, but made all of my photos an unappetizing yellow, so please forgive the glare. For our first course, Nöelle had langoustine ravioli, Lenny had pâté with smoked duck, served with crusty bread and arugula, and I had tiny mussels in a casserole, which I didn't care for. We agreed that Lenny's pâté was the best choice. For our main course, Nöelle chose paupiettes de lièvre, which is a rabbit dish that is not often on a menu. It was served with mushrooms and mashed potatoes and she thought it was very nice. Lenny and I both had a croustillant pouch filled with lamb and mushrooms in a sauce, that sat on a serving of mashed potatoes and topped with crispy vegetables. It was pure, home cooked comfort food.
They are known for their dessert soufflés, so Lenny had a pistachio soufflé that had a layer of chocolate at the bottom,and Nöelle had a Grand Marnier soufflé that came with its own bottle of Grand Marnier to pour in the center! Since a meal is rarely complete for me without chocolate, I had a warm chocolate cake with crème anglaise and ice cream, that was garnished with fresh figs. All in all, we dined well and left happy!
L'Amuse-Bouche:
186,rue du Chateau, Paris, France
01 43 35 31 61 Paris

Brocantes:
http://www.spam.fr

Volcanoes, Flea Markets and Spoons

I feel a little like the proverbial canary in the coal mine. All flights into and out of most of Europe have been canceled for the past few days due to a large volcano erupting in Iceland. The volcanic ash it has spewed into the jetstream is detrimental to airplane engines. Today I am supposed to be taking one of the first flights over the Atlantic to Paris since the initial cancellations. Keep your fingers (or spoons) crossed. It could always cancel at the last minute. Last Saturday my friends Nancy, Robert and I had plans to go to a local brocante or flea market that was just for the weekend. The sun was bright and the temperature was warm. Normally we'd sit at a cafe and soak it all in before starting our day, but bargains could be snapped up as we sipped our coffee. So we did the unthinkable...we had coffee emporter. It was my first time, honest. I'm not sure why (I don't think there was volcanic ash yet), but the photo of the coffee came out with a rosy glow which seems a little surreal looking. This boulangerie still makes their bread fresh every day, so to go with our coffee we also got a couple of ficelle au fromage for the walk through Parc Montsouris to the flea market. As we passed through the park, families enjoyed pony rides, carousels and just plain horsing around. I can verify that this man on the park bench was dressed, but at first glance it seemed otherwise. You can make up your own caption. We left the park, and back on the main street an indoor flea market, Emmaüs, drew us in. It's not large but has some treasures. I bought some spoons from a box of miscellaneous silver. I really wanted this fork and knife set, but airport security frowns on bringing knives through**sigh** A lady carried a bowl that she snapped up before me....see, there are valid reasons for coffee "to go." Minutes matter. A short walk brought us to Place Jacques Demy (named after the famous French filmaker), where a caliope playing music welcomed us. The dealers had their wares set up with a variety of goods. There were tapestries and puzzles, linens, containers, and pottery. We didn't buy anything, but were tempted by many. Maybe not by this candy, but I wondered what these rug dealers had brewing in their pot. It made us start to think about dinner after we had whiled away the day. We had plans to meet our friends Rick and Brenda for dinner, so we had a brisk walk back to the hotel. After dropping off treasures, we made it to our friend's apartment and had time for a few cocktails before going to Chez Gladines for dinner. It is known for huge salads, low prices and a large social scene outside while waiting for a table. We made it for the first seating, but soon it filled up elbow to elbow inside and cheek to jowl outside. While we dipped our bread into the garlicky oil from our escargot, a beagle at the next table had his eyes on everyone, or maybe just our plates. He settled down as the evening wore on. We finished our meal and were told not to linger...people were waiting outside. OK, OK...we paid the l'addtion and left. It was a beautiful night as we kissed Rick and Brenda good bye until next time.

Emmaüs 80 blvd. Jourdan in the 14th
metro: Porte d'Orleans

Place Jauques Demy in the 14th has a variety of markets depending on the day.
metro: Mouton Dervernet

Chez Gladines 30 rue des Cinq Diamants in the 13th. Arrive by 7:30pm or after 11:00pm for a table to avoid the large local crowds for this budget priced restaurant.
metro: Place d'Italie or Corvisart